Who could replace Gundel?

By: trademagazin Date: 2008. 12. 16. 08:00

Which kitchen would be chosen as the “kitchen of the nation” if a vote was to be held about this question? A traditional “csárda” with traditional dishes, Gundel, or a place named best by one of the modern guides? What criteria would such a decision be based on? Perhaps, it is better not to ask this question, although the majority of the elite of our chefs would possibly still vote for Gundel. Gundel succeeded in being voted one of the best 100 restaurants of the world in 2004, according to Restaurant magazine. Its guests have included heads of state and the Pope. However, since the departure of Kálmán Kalla, no chef has stayed very long and the restaurant has become a target of frequent criticism. What is happening in Gundel? – was the question we asked Dr. Gábor Buday, managing director. – We are working hard but there are some problems which we find difficult to cope with. We have not been able to find anybody who could fill the place of Kálmán Kalla, who was not only an excellent chef, but also excelled in communication. – János Cseh, the last person appointed as chef in his own right, was fully committed to 21st century reform cuisine, who tried to prepare even traditional dishes on the basis of the currently popular concept of deconstruction. However, this has not been accepted by the guests who like Gundel for its traditional flavours. Modernisation can only take place gradually and János Cseh did not accept this.

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