Characters

One of Hungary’s most characteristic restaurants and one of our most characteristic chefs have started working together recently. We talked with the chef and Gundel’s managing director Gábor Buday. Why did you choose Gábor Merczi? Buday Gábor: Ever since the retirement of Kálmán Kalla we have been struggling to find the right head chef for Gundel. At the beginning of this year we could choose from two nominees and Gábor Merczi won the test cooking.

We asked him to make Gundel one of the leading kitchens in Budapest. Who evaluates the chef’s work?
B.G.: First and foremost guests do, but professionally it is Gundel’s management. Merczi Gábor: I try to spend a lot of time among guests, but very often I do not get to know guests’ opinion directly.
What kind of result do you expect from the head chef?
B.G.: Gábor’s main task now is to concentrate on repairing the damages that have been done in the recent past.
Did they receive you as a saviour or as just another contestant in the kitchen?
M.G.: As just another contestant. I believe that I can teach people to do quality work – I did not get rid of anyone. I have to run a 500 m² kitchen with more than 40 people.

The management expects constant development and learning from you. How will you do this?
M.G.: I think that above a certain level they can learn most effectively from each other.

What characterises the kitchen you lead?
M.G.: I would say it is Hungarian gastronomy on a French basis. Creative chefs also need to experiment and the dishes I prepare for wine dinners make this possible for me. In the bar we will serve food that represents 21st–century sandwich culture.

What would you call success?
M.G.: It is already success that I can be here. I think it would take 5-10 years to make a lasting impression and to create Gundel’s new character. We will be offering quality food to our quality service.