Climate change is redrawing the wine map of our country

By: Trademagazin Date: 2025. 09. 10. 10:17

🎧 Hallgasd a cikket: Nyelv: Sebesség: 1.05×

The Eger wine region was long known for grape varieties adapted to cooler climates, most notably Egri Bikavér and its white wines. However, climate change has fundamentally reshaped the region’s conditions over the past decades. Today, heat accumulation levels make it possible to produce full-bodied red wines. What once seemed possible only in Villány or Szekszárd is now a reality in Eger: varieties like Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon ripen optimally each year – explained Antal Kovács, Hungary’s permanent champion sommelier.

This year’s most successful Eger wineries at the Challenge International du Vin were Thummerer Winery (2 golds, 1 silver) and Villa Völgy Winery (1 gold, 2 silvers).

Thummerer Winery, with a 40-year history, achieved gold medals for its Egri Syrah Superior Selection 2021 and Egri Kékfrankos Superior Selection 2021, both strong examples of Eger’s adaptation to heat-demanding grape varieties. Founder Vilmos Thummerer always emphasized the importance of competing not only at home but also internationally, where the most prominent producers measure their skills. The Bordeaux-based Challenge International du Vin is particularly significant for the family, as their red wines are made in a Bordeaux style.

Villa Völgy Winery, in contrast, is a much younger player, yet quickly joined the top ranks. Its Mész-hegy Syrah Grand Superior 2021 won gold, while the Cabernet Franc 2018 and Merlot Superior 2021 brought home silver medals.

“Winning a gold medal at such a prestigious international competition within a few years of founding is not only a huge recognition, but also an inspiration. We believe that with humility toward terroir, grapes and tradition, combined with a modern outlook, we can secure a lasting place in both Hungarian and international winemaking,”

said József Oczella, founder of Villa Völgy Winery.

The two wineries’ success illustrates that in the international wine world, quality matters more than size or history. While the awarded wines came from the 2018 and 2021 vintages, winemakers see great promise in 2025 as well. Despite the lack of rainfall, blue grapes are ripening well and remain healthy, suggesting another vintage of concentrated, complex reds in Eger.

Gold Medal Winners

Thummerer Egri Syrah Superior Selection 2021 – Gold
Deep ruby red, with clear, intense aromas of black berries. On the palate, harmonious acidity, rich body and velvety tannins. An elegant wine with great aging potential, recommended with red meats and aged cheeses.

Thummerer Egri Kékfrankos Superior Selection 2021 – Gold
Purple hue, aromas of sour cherry and plum with fine spiciness. Lively acidity, silky tannins, cherry–chocolate finish. Well-structured, ideal with roasts and stews.

Villa Völgy Egri Syrah Mész-hegy Grand Superior 2021 – Gold
Crimson red, aromas of blackberry, blueberry, pepper and Mediterranean spices. Full-bodied, fiery, with long-lasting finish. A serious red that ages well, perfect with beef, game and hard cheeses.

Silver Medal Winners

Villa Völgy Egri Cabernet Franc 2018 – Silver
Deep color, blackcurrant and cherry on the nose, mature character. Balanced acidity, silky tannins, long finish. A distinctive red, recommended with red meats and hard cheeses.

Villa Völgy Egri Merlot Superior 2021 – Silver
Purple hue, aromas of raspberry, sour cherry, vanilla and cinnamon. Rich, warm, dense texture with long aftertaste. Excellent with steak and game dishes.

Thummerer Tekenőháti Merlot Grand Superior 2021 – Silver
Ruby red, aromas of blueberry, spices and floral notes. Lively acidity, rich body, jammy fruitiness. Enjoyable young, yet a serious wine alongside meat dishes.