Climatic taste crisis: is gin’s distinctive flavor in danger?

One of the most interesting conclusions: gin – like wine – shows a terroir character, meaning that the taste of the juniper berries used as the raw material is significantly influenced by the geographical and climatic conditions of the growing area. “A wet harvest year can reduce the total volatile compounds of juniper by about 12 percent compared to a dry year, which changes the experience of gin,” said researcher Matthew Pauley.

The study, which involved processing juniper berries from Albania, Bosnia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, Kosovo and Italy, and analysing their aromas and flavours using gas chromatography after distillation, found that regional and vintage variations in the woody, resinous, citrus and floral notes of gin were causing dramatic differences.

Climate change is not only affecting the flavour profile, but also the production process: there are more wet years, which means the berries need to dry for longer. This in turn is changing the amount of water-soluble compounds they contain and the final character of the distillate.

“This is a major challenge for a multi-billion-pound industry where consistent quality is key in the premium segment,” warns Professor Annie Hill. He says climate change could jeopardize the practice of high-quality gin producers, who consciously select berries from different regions for a unique flavor profile.

The research results are particularly relevant, as there is growing interest in quality, artisanal products on the Hungarian gin market. The spread of the terroir concept could open up new horizons for domestic gin producers as well – provided they manage to adapt to the challenges of the climate.