Bratwurst war rages in Germany
A minor gastronomic conflict has erupted between two German states, Bavaria and Thuringia: both claim the primacy of the famous Bratwurst, or fried sausage. The dispute is not only about prestige, but also about the culinary narrative on which the tourism branding of cities and regions is built.
Throughout Germany, Bratwurst is one of the most popular dishes at fairs, festivals, weekend barbecues and everyday meals, and is loved by locals and tourists alike. It was long believed that it was first served in a Bavarian restaurant, the Wurstkuchl in Regensburg: according to tradition, the record that the fried sausage was already available on the banks of the Danube dates back to 1378.
However, a new find may now overturn that story. Historians in Erfurt have found a document from 1269 that suggests that sausages were being sold in the Thuringian capital almost a century before the Wurstkuchl in Regensburg. Researchers are now trying to identify where in the city the restaurant in question may have been located. The earliest known Thuringian mention dates back to 1404, the BBC reported.
Meanwhile, the Wurstkuchl continues to proudly proclaim that its recipe has “almost remained unchanged” since the Middle Ages: homemade pork-filled sausages are grilled over charcoal and served with homemade sauerkraut and mustard. The restaurant’s owner, Alexandra Meier, told BR24 that she wouldn’t be bothered if it turned out that they weren’t the oldest sausage maker in Germany; is proud of the achievements of the family business and believes that guests return for the quality and service. “I don’t think anyone would say: well, I’ll stop coming from now on because this is only the second oldest sausage shop,” he said.
The rivalry is not without precedent: Regensburg and Nuremberg previously competed for the title of “first bratwurst stand,” and the Regensburgers came out on top. Now, however, the discovery in the Thuringian archives opens a new chapter in the story, and it is possible that Erfurt will be inscribed on the gastronomic map as the birthplace of Bratwurst.
No matter how the debate ends, Bratwurst will remain one of Germany’s most important culinary icons – and the rivalry between regions will probably only attract even more curious gourmets to the grills.
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