Adriá for everybody!

There is much that is confusing at first about Tickets, the tapas bar Ferran Adrià recently opened with his brother Albert in Barcelona. There is the greeter in top hat and circus-master rig, the rows of theatre lights like an early Odeon, even a smart bar with another name secluded behind a curtain. The design screams diffusion line. This is no sacred temple to gastronomy, it says. Tickets is tapas as democracy, world-class cooking for travellers and Barcelona families who never made it on the winding road to Roses and now never will.